Lucia Laffan, a Laidlaw Scholar at Cambridge University, designing a future where fashion supports sustainability and global causes.
Research Title:
Can the business models for charity clothing shops and second-hand clothing platforms be combined and developed to revolutionise the fashion industry for the good of the planet and humanitarian causes?
My research project examines the potential to design and implement a business, which would provide a branded one-stop marketplace for second-hand, upcycled clothes and accessories where the sale proceeds would be distributed to a charity of the buyer’s choice at the point of sale. The vision behind this research project is to examine the merits and potential of a business model that establishes and embeds a culture of recycling of repurposing fashionable clothes in combination with charitable giving. The idea is that the process of distributing proceeds from upcycled and re-sold clothing to a variety of charities would become a stand-alone, ethical fashion brand. The business would aim to be a modern take on the meaning of exchange for the better.
Where did your passion for this research originate?
I have always been quite creative and enjoyed art and design in school, completing both GCSE and A-level in the subject. If Cambridge did not work out, a plan I had was to go to the Glasgow School of Art to study Architecture at the Macintosh School of Architecture. At this time I believed that this was the best area of design to enter into with the goal of contextually improving people’s different standards of living while saving the planet. That being said, I have always loved fashion and am passionate about the way that good clothing design can really affect the way that you feel and behave in addition to its effects on the planet. At school, I completed an EPQ (Extended Project Qualification) which I titled “Is ethical fashion just window dressing?”. This project focused on the humanitarian and environmental costs of the fashion industry. My A-level Art self-selected topics also centred around similar themes, for example, one was titled “Design by Nature.” In equal measure to my interest in fashion and sustainability, I have always been interested in finding impossible solutions to global issues such as child poverty and equal female education and employment rates. My degree in Politics and Anthropology at the University of Cambridge has further ignited these interests. This research is the unification of my equal passions for fashion and design; environment and sustainability and global humanitarian issues.
What is the most memorable moment from your Laidlaw scholarship experience so far?
The most memorable moment of my Laidlaw Scholarship so far would have to be my Leadership in Action project, spent in Kerala, India working with the ethical fashion company “Swara: Voice of Women”, and different partner organisations, to learn about female economic empowerment through craft. I feel so grateful and privileged to have met so many incredible women on this journey - each with their own unique story of how they entered the world of craft. One of the most memorable moments was my conversation with the founder of SEWA Kerala (Self Employed Women’s Association) Nalini Nayak about her feminist doctrine. She was ahead of her time in conflating the inequalities women face with the rise of production and industrial revolution or in other words “patriarchy” and “capitalism”. I found her insights extremely interesting, especially with regard to her advocacy for a division of labour based on gender. She began SEWA Kerala by working with the women of the fishing villages who were not getting paid for their administrative work as much as the men who fished. She emphasised that women can be different - they should be celebrated in their difference to men but be treated equally.
This is a photo of me wearing the trousers that were designed for a fundraiser capsule collection for Swara: Voice of Women as part of my Leadership in Action summer spent in Kerala, India on the CraftHER program, We worked with the female tailors employed by Swara.
What is the biggest challenge you came across in your research and leadership journeys so far, and what did you learn from it?
One of the biggest challenges that I have faced so far has been during my Leadership in Action summer in communicating designs to tailors. As part of my Leadership in Action summer spent in Kerala, India with Swara: Voice of Women, I was given the opportunity to design my own collection that would be produced by the female tailors. It was difficult to know when to hold on to my own design and when to bend with what the tailor recommended. In addition to these design negotiations, I had a language barrier. I had to ensure I was completely clear and confident in my vision and also simultaneously open to the possibility that it may have to change. This was a challenging and incredible lesson that I believe proved invaluable to the development of better leadership skills.
This is a photo of me with the female tailors who worked on bringing our capsule collection to life and assisted in helping me create my own collection for our Leadership in Action personal projects
Which particular leaders inspire you the most and why?
I am most inspired by leaders who not only champion the causes I am most passionate about but also do so in a way I believe to be most effective. One such leader who springs to mind is Lily Cole. She is an activist, model, actress, entrepreneur and author of the eye-opening page-turner that is “Who Cares Wins”. The book and accompanying podcast shine light on the multitude of different solutions to the climate crisis and their affiliated differing philosophies - slow growth versus de-growth being two key areas she addresses. She may not be an obvious leader, but she is my most inspiring leader. I appreciate her quiet activism and deep passion. I am also excited by her involvement in so many different spheres - spreading the same message around the importance of sustainable living and sustainable business. I believe that successful involvement in lots of different spaces requires a passion, determination and interest associated with good leadership.
Briefly describe a scene from the future you are striving to create.
My dream is to create my own ethical fashion brand. I want to address issues of environmental and global humanitarian crisis. I would love to have shops all over the world that address these issues through the sale of beautifully and stylishly designed, sustainable clothing.
What does it mean for you to be a Laidlaw Scholar?
Being a Laidlaw Scholar has been the best thing that has happened to me at university so far. The opportunities that it has generated have been invaluable to both my personal and professional development. I believe this program is designed to beautifully and equally develop both the person and the professional. I have faith that it will bring about better leadership by bringing human values into the professional space. It has encouraged me to think big while providing the means by which to realise some of these dreams. The first summer of research gave me space to develop my ideas around sustainable fashion and humanitarian solutions while going to India to work with women in craft has made me realise that these ideas need not remain as ideas - that they may one day become reality with the support network that Laidlaw has facilitated. It is for all these reasons that I am eternally grateful to the foundation for awarding me my Laidlaw Scholarship.
Meeting the women of craft across Kerala and making friends for life during my Leadership in Action summer!
If you want to learn more about Lucia's work, explore Lucia's research here. Luciais a Laidlaw Undergraduate Leadership and Research Scholar at the@University of Cambridge. Become a Laidlaw Scholar to conduct a research project of your choice, develop your leadership skills, and join a global community of changemakers from world-leading universities.
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