My Summer of Sustainable Fashion Research: Insights and Growth
This past summer, I had the unique opportunity to conduct an independent research project as part of the Laidlaw Scholarship Programme. My research, titled “Certifiably Sustainable: The Fashion Industry and Affordability for the Mass Market,” aimed to investigate how affordable fashion brands can achieve sustainability certifications and what adjustments might be necessary to make ethical fashion more inclusive. It was a challenging yet rewarding six-week journey that not only expanded my understanding of sustainable fashion but also pushed me to grow personally and academically.
Jumping In: My Motivation and Initial Goals
When I was selected as a Laidlaw Scholar, my excitement was through the roof. While many of my fellow scholars were motivated by a deep academic curiosity, my own drive centred around leadership development. After feeling somewhat disconnected from academia since starting university, I saw this scholarship as a chance to rekindle my passion for knowledge while also improving my leadership skills.
At the outset, I set clear objectives for my research. I planned to explore existing sustainability certifications, assess their compatibility with affordable fashion brands, and propose an adjusted certification model. Specifically, I aimed to analyse the following brands and certifications; B Corp, EcoCert, GOTS, OEKO-TEX, Climate Neutral Certification, 1% for the Planet, Sedex Ethical Trade Audit, Fairtrade and the Fair Wear Foundation, Boody, Subset, Honest Basics, Yes Friends, CHNGE, Mighty Good Basics, PACT, Rapanui, Tala, Patagonia and Pangaia. The purpose of this was to pinpoint barriers and offer solutions for making sustainable fashion more accessible to all.
The Structure of My Research
My research was planned in a structured weekly plan:
- Weeks 1-2: I conducted content analysis of various certifications and affordable fashion brands.
- Weeks 3-4: Perform thematic analysis to identify patterns and challenges that brands face in obtaining certifications.
- Weeks 5-6: I intended to propose improvements to the current certification model to expand accessibility, especially for low-income consumers.
Using the qualitative research methods I had studied in my business and economics courses, I aimed to thoroughly explore the intersection of sustainability, affordability, and certification in the fashion industry.
Personal Struggles and Unexpected Challenges
Although I’m a meticulous planner and approached the project with a carefully crafted timeline, I quickly realized that research doesn’t always go according to plan. The first two weeks were smooth—I had a routine, and breaking down certifications and brands into research tasks was satisfying. But after that, I hit a wall. The more abstract phases of my research, like developing new ideas based on findings, were harder to quantify into daily goals.
Looking back, I think two main factors contributed to this rough patch. First, as an extrovert, I found the self-led nature of the project isolating. I was far from family, and many friends were busy with their own summer plans, which left me lacking the social energy I typically rely on. I had to be proactive about staying connected, I should have scheduled coffee breaks with friends and travelled home on weekends for family dinners earlier in the 6 weeks. This experience taught me that social interaction is key to my well-being and productivity, and I carried that lesson forward into my next internship.
Secondly, I struggled with self-doubt. After switching to a business degree coming from a science-heavy background in school, I found myself questioning the value of my work compared to that of my peers in more traditional STEM fields. While I knew that my research had significant societal implications, it was hard to shake the feeling that it wasn’t as “important” as scientific research. However, feedback from my supervisor and my experience during an internship working on government consulting projects helped me realize that business research can indeed enact meaningful change. This is an area of self-doubt that I continue to work on.
Findings: Ethical Fashion Doesn’t Have to Be Expensive
One of the most eye-opening revelations from my research was that ethical fashion doesn’t have to come with a high price tag. Contrary to popular belief, some of the most sustainable brands I studied—such as Honest Basics and Yes Friends—were also the most affordable. These brands prioritised sustainability without relying on expensive certifications, which I have now learnt can serve as barriers for smaller companies.
The core principles that allowed these brands to be both ethical and affordable included bulk production, basic designs, cutting out middlemen, and not offering free returns. This debunked the myth that sustainable fashion is inherently exclusive and laid the groundwork for further exploration of how certifications might be revised to promote greater inclusivity.
*This blog post will be updated with my final poster laying out a greater detail of findings after it has been reviewed.
The Future of Sustainable Fashion and My Next Steps
While I didn’t achieve my initial goal of creating an entirely new certification model (a lofty and naïve goal, in hindsight), my research still produced valuable insights. Moving forward, I believe there is a need for government intervention in the sustainable fashion industry. More rigorous and accessible certifications, supported by legislative measures, could enforce higher ethical standards across the industry.
In the long term, I envision a future where ethical fashion ratings are as commonplace as restaurant hygiene ratings. These ratings would be legally required on storefronts and online, making sustainability a norm rather than a niche. I hope that future research can help push the fashion industry in this direction.
Leadership Lessons and Personal Growth
One of the things I learnt about leadership this summer is that leaders get as much from the people they ‘lead’ as the people do from their leader. With how much I struggled without having a group to bounce ideas off of or collaborate with I came to appreciate the almost symbiotic nature of leadership between people. With this came the realisation that I could also use some work on being better at doing things alone. I discussed this with Meg at my coaching session this summer and as a goal to help make steps towards addressing this problem whilst also dealing my need for control, I went to Portstewart in Northern Ireland, nearly two hours away from home by myself and with no planned itinerary. I drove around the town with no final destination planned and simply stopped off at a beach that looked inviting. I tried a new restaurant nearby without checking the menu or reviews and just spent the day exploring the area and reading a book by myself. Although I had moments where this felt incredibly unnatural, I drove home that evening feeling like my battery was full. It was important for me to see that I could fill my own metaphorical battery and that I could enjoy a day that wasn’t planned to the nth degree. Improving myself in this way will grow my leadership skills as time goes on. I think it’s important for a leader to be able to stand on their own without the need of others’ approval but they also need to relinquish control to allow the true benefits of collaboration to be able to show themselves.
This research project, while challenging, was transformative. It reignited my passion for academic inquiry, strengthened my leadership skills, and pushed me to confront personal obstacles. I’m excited to carry these lessons forward in my academic and professional journey, and I hope my work contributes in some small way to making sustainable fashion more accessible and inclusive.